Goa Gospels

And we were back to Goa!

This time with more tweaks.

Yes, this time we took a train at midnight from Mumbai to reach Goa by next day close to noon. The train runs through North Goa and ends at South Goa (Margao), where we met our buddy coming from Bangalore. Our hotel was in North Goa, so we got in an private bus packed more than Dadar station to reach the nearest government bus stop. From there, we took our next stop at Panjim. Famished, we decided to hire the car from Panjim. Unlike North Goa, the car points are really sketchy here. The dealer took 3000 bucks as advance and a photocopy of license, giving us a 2007 Maruti which was too manual for this generation. Despite its shortcomings, it served its purpose well.

Night 1

We checked in to a small spot at Candolim (pre-booked over call) which is essentially an extra room inside the house of a cafe owner called Bosco (1000 per night for 3 guys-quite a deal). Bob asked us to check out his cafe on beach, which could be accessed through a trail of garden adjoining the luxury hotel in front.

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Accessing Candolim beach from Bobs Inn

Bosco had a shack on beach, which was pretty novel for my two buddies. Watching the sunset over beers and snacks, chatting and laughing over nostalgia was long overdue.

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Sunset from a shack

At night, we checked in to the nearest well rated eatery called Bob’s Inn. Famously placed near Hyatt, this place is highly recommended for good taste, decent pricing and a huge collection of old wines.

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Friendship over beers

We swore by Chinese items on the menu. Be aware that they close at 11 PM, so recommended to check in by 10 o clock.

Day 2

This is going to be one long ride.

So we left really early to cover the two major churches of old Goa.

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Inside St Basilica of Bom Jesus

There is a small shop inside church serving breakfast oriented snacks. The extent of exploring was similar to the first post about this place, hence will continue to the next stop.

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Reading through history
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Over Paus and Mazaa

This is where things got interesting. I finally accessed the coveted South Goa, starting off with the very famous fishing beach of Col9.jpgva.

 

Parallel to Margao (or Madgaon), the route is fairly accurate on Google maps but the vibe of South Goa is less commercialized and more rural. I believe Colva is the last spot where you will still run into crowd due to being fisherman’s favorite, as beyond this the terrain changes dramatically.

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Fisherman’s boat

Nonetheless, Colva is a beautiful beach albeit not perfect for swimming.

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YOLO

The restaurants at end of the beach serve some great food, including authentic Goan curry.

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Authentic Goan delicacy

Further down, we entered the heaven called Palolem. Hands down this is the most beautiful beach Goa has to offer.

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Rows of sunbathers line up the beach. The road to this part of South Goa is highways with low habitation and unruly elevation.

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My favorite shot of the trip

Rock formation is one of the most unique aspect of the beach. This renders such beaches hard to swim and significantly dangerous unless you are extremely strong and adept at braving the waves.

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Rock paper scissor

The rocks have interesting flora formation, probably some algae or seaweed coupled with really slippery moss covering that makes it hard to climb upon.

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Seaweed and Algae

Night 2

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And we were back to Panjim for the cruise ride. Everything about the ride was almost the same, although we did manage to twirl around the floating casino Deltin Royal a lot more.

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The Casino

Oh, and my buddies did dance. A lot.

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Selfie on a dance

But so did the rest of the boat.

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Where is the party tonight

We checked in Fisherman’s Cove, by far the best restaurant of Goa with live music ambience, open atmosphere and scrumptious food. Crabs, Lobsters and chicken filled our plates.

At night, we partied HARD. From Headbanging to Cartwheels, from Body Waves to Air Guitar. The craziest night we had in a long time.

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Dancing to Chikni Chameli

Day 3

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The tip of Goa, where you can see Maharashtra on other side, requires driving through roads cut through mountains. Querim beach, the very first beach of Goa is one of a kind.

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Cause Sea is Life

The beach is again full of sunbathers, optimal for surfing. Being in estuary formation, the beach slopes down steeply into water with waves crashing in with extreme force.

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Lifeguard Poles

There are ropes connecting the beach to fishing poles in the sea. it is highly recommended to hold on to them tightly in event of losing balance.

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Tag! You are It!

Next stop was Chapora fort-Vagator beach. The experience was somewhat similar for me with some add on experiences.

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This time we did carry a DSLR to parasailing zone, with bouts of sea water hitting me across face.

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BLURBBB

Night 3

We drove to Dona Paula with full might but reached couple of minutes post sunset unfortunately.

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the ambience was amazing though, with post sunset rays slowly ebbing away into darkness. As we got up to leave, fireworks filled up the sky.

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Serene Sunset

And we were back to the Saturday Night Market near Baga beach. This time we actually spent more time exploring every nook and corner of the place.

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The live music was on this time as well. Saturday market still continues to be one of my favorite experiences every time in Goa.

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Live Music Performance
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The Boom Stage

Day 4

We roamed around Panjim a bit (and got couple of floral T-shirts with Goa inscribed). The airport was way off from the city. There are state buses running from Panjim bus stand to Vasco Da Gama airport which was not running that day for odd reason. We asked the car owner who rented us car to drop off and he agreed to do the same for 500 bucks.

Tip Offs

  • Do not miss South Goa. For the love of god, dont do that. It is worth every second you spend there. The stark contrast between the beaches is what makes Goa so special.
  • Querim is another must see. I do not think anything as unique as sloping beach of Querim is worth missing. The lack of tourists make them amazing.
  • Bob’s Inn and Fisherman’s Cove are highly recommended. First time we did not really give much attention to the place where you are eating due to budget constraint. however these restaurants make sense if you are into seafood.
  • GPS can be life saver in Goa. They behave bit funny on crossing junctions though.
  • Get car from North Goa (Thivim chain of shops maybe) if you have to. The whole process of getting a car is bit shady and random, unlike the ease o getting bike. Remember there is no Uber/Ola in Goa yet. Bike still remains the smarter transport option.

My Recommendation

If you are in smaller groups like us, skip the banana ride. Ask the parasailing boat guy to drop you into ocean. he will agree for a couple of hundred bucks. Its equally fun.

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Miles to float before I sleep

Ciao

Sayantan

Caving In Elephanta Cavern

Ferry rides from Gateway of India Mumbai go either to Mandwa/Alibaug (Read about my Alibaug travelogue) or Elephanta Island. Each roundabout ticket for Lower Deck costs 190 INR each, with access to upper deck at 10 INR extra, spanning the journey of over 1 hour to and fro each. I managed to catch the Mumbai skyline pretty well due to clear sky, other than that sit back and chill…

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Mumbai Skyline

As we landed on the jetty running across the beach, we were greeted by hoard of aggressive cows and plenty of dogs. Highly recommended not to carry food in this stretch as there are plenty of options up ahead at reasonable rate. The beach looks rocky and does not look fit for swimming.

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Elephanta Island Jetty

Up ahead we had to climb up over 100 steps flanked by series of stalls selling nearly everything you can think of. There are plenty of eateries as well amidst these shops. On reaching the gateway on top, we had to buy tickets of 5INR each to enter the UNESCO world heritage site.

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The restored cave at main entrance

History cannot pinpoint the origin of the cave exactly as the island houses five Hindu caves and two Buddhist caves. However the cave has been considerably damaged during Portuguese invasion of 15th century, a lot of which has been restored. They had spared the central 20 feet Trimurti of Shiva, which forms the major pinnacle of tourist attraction.

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Trimurti sculpture

The rest of the caves were in too much broken state to really unearth what was there but sharing couple of artifacts to give an idea.

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Shiva Linga
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Broken Art

We finally managed to catch the last ferry at 7 PM that took us back to homeland. The night sky and view is amazing as we sailed across the ocean. Being 26th November, Gateway and Taj were illuminated in memory of the martyrs.

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Taj and Gateway

Tip Offs

  • Avoid carrying food and water bottles. The land borne animals chase you for food while the monkeys are equipped enough to use water bottle.
  • You can buy hats/caps at 100 INR on reaching there. If sun makes you sad, buy one.
  • 100 steps isn’t difficult but isn’t very easy either. Be prepared to walk a lot.
  • Not a place to enjoy with friends. Stay away if you want to have a fun time.

My Recommendation

Buy items you might want to take as souvenir from the flank across stairways. The variety is immense. On parting note, here is a monkey who partially figured out how to drink water from bottle.

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Monkeying Around

Am getting super infrequent with this.

Until Next Time.

Sayantan

Update (2020)

The font becomes smaller because that is the new style of blog posts.

My second visit was all about ensuring four senior citizens can reach the top. This time I explored nearly all the major caves, just because I did not the time before. There is really nothing special to add here.

Cooling Point Coorg

Get-Set-Go

Landed on Bangalore soil at midnight. The on-off relationship with this city astounds me. Yet the airport terminal filled me with the same awe. In between a couple of hours and Subway sandwich, the Travera swooped in to pick us up as we headed for Coorg.

Our Riding Machine
Our wheels on Trip – THE TRAVERA

The Forest

Three hours is what it takes to reach Coorg on wheels. We reached Nagarhole National Forest entry checkpoint at 5.45 AM sharp, waiting for the sun to rise and gates to open.

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Enter the Reserve

Here is the first fun part. You can not stop in between the ride.

Why you ask? Well the animals are literally few feet away and messing with wild bison/boar/elephant (yeah and tigers if you get lucky) is not a very smart idea.

Chinkara
Spotted Deer

Bison
Indian Bisons

Peacock
Male Peacock

Reindeer (???)
Spotted Deer

Elephant
Dwarf Elephants

The forest is long and travel takes nearly 2 hours to reach safari spot (which operates twice, 6 to 8 in morning and 3 to 5 in evening) in extremely erratic pattern. Despite the abundance of tigers, the officials often end up not having the safari.

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Official Safari Bus

Each jeep allows five people maximum at expense of 700 INR per head and promise of experiencing live tiger. A bus stays on standby which again runs pretty infrequently. We were unfortunately late but sources often say they could not spot any stripes. However the spot is great with proper loo and well made cottages.

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Safari Reception Center

 The Stay

After missing the opportunity to meet the striped cats, we drove across to our retreat. Picking up few bottles of home-made wine, available in multiple flavors along the way, we landed in between the home of coffee plantations.

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An outside view of our stay

The owners were gracious enough to get us food since we were way too tired to move another muscle. The night felt amazing with old friends, wines, local foods and a Television with really few channels.

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Drawing room

And so next morning, we left through the coffee and cashew farms to head up to next destination – the hill-station which Coorg is famous for.

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Coffee Garden

The Hills

Mandalpatti gives you a flavor of hills that you only get in Northern and North-Eastern part of India. This is the point beyond which the roads are so steep, that they needed us to take a local jeep ahead which charged us around 600 INR.

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Jeep boarding point

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Road to Pushpagiri entrance

Pushpagiri wildlife sanctuary is synonymous with Mandalpatti as we did not see any animals in the thick dense cloud that lies ahead. However the road gets extremely rocky beyond this point.

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Pushpagiri Reserve gateway

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Jeep track to the peak

The jeeps park at the base of lone tourism center and the driver asked us to get back in an hour. Its trekking up to the top from this point.

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Jeep parking point

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Mandalpatti Reception Center

The charm of this place lies in the fact that we had literally entered the clouds. Nothing is visible beyond few feet away. If a moisture laden cloud chances by, one can experience rain inside a cloud!

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Viewpoint inside clouds

The Temple

Talacauvery is higher up and shrouded by mist of clouds. The rain-clouds had hit the place when we landed, cooling the temperature close to freezing point.

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Gate leading to Cauvery origins

There are numerous marble steps to top and we pulled all our strength against the unnatural frozen storm and rain to reach the destination. The thick fog hindered visibility on a massive scale.

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Marble structured entrance

The temple top is a strictly no photography zone. In general it is a temple constructed few meters down to the actual source of Cauvery. Attaching an image from wikipedia to project a view of what one can expect.

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Wikipedia photo of Talacauvery temple

The Falls

We went down to the most famous waterfall of Kodagu- Iruppu Falls. There is a quite temple at the entrance, we had to pay a nominal fee to enter and walk up to the falls.

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Temple entrance to Iruppu falls

The road ahead is amazing, full of greenery and upstream Cauvery. There are wooden bridges with ropes, leeches and beautiful butterflies along the way.

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Iruppu falls

We went ahead and entered the pit where the waterfall touched the ground. The natural two step formation broke its amazing force, enabling us to have a nice bath on slippery rocks. Refreshed we headed for our next touchdown.

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Beneath the waterfall

The Monastery

The famous Buddhist structures in Kodagu of Kushalnagar is called Namdroling Monastery or more popularly, the Golden Temple. Its a huge area with ample number of people and monks ready to take selfie with you.

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Gateway to Monastery

The center of attraction is the statue trio of three Buddhas – Gautama Buddha (formerly Prince Siddharth) in the center, Padmasambhava or Second Buddha on the left and Amitāyus (popularly Amitabha) or Celestial Buddha on the right. Like most monasteries, peace rings in every nook and corner of Golden temple.

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Three pillars of Buddhism

The Camp

Dubare elephant camp is a major tourist attraction because of the rides of dwarf sized mammoths on other side of Cauvery. However landing there in afternoon on a holiday meant a huge crowd and never ending line to cross the river, hence we never explored the place much. The adventure junkies seemed to have a grand time rowing in the current though.

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Rowing on Cauvery

A lot of people were frolicking in the water. Recommended one should not go deep as force of the stream is strong and a lot of people do drown here.

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On banks of Elephant camp

The Throne

Not Game of Thrones. Ok, kind of a King’s throne where there is no actual throne. The King apparently built this place to view the sunset (which is amazing by the way) from this spot, lending it the name Raja’s Seat. A perfect way to end the day with sunset.

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Raja’s seat during sunset

Tip Offs

  • Going with car helps a lot. You can travel considerable distance and spots if you are with your friends, helps more if any of you know Kannada.
  • Famous as one of the most popular honeymoon spot in South, I would consider it as one of the best emulation of Northern mountains with decent food and stay.
  • There are options for adventures be it Jungle Safari, Rowing or Toy Train. Again one of the few places in Southern India offering such activities.
  • There is not much to do in dark as its mountains. Getting up early and reaching home before sunset needs to be adhered to.

My Recommendation

The clouds. Walking in the clouds. Its surreal. Every time.

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Mandalpatti as seen from distance

This was late post. Like really late. Got busy with life.

Love

Sayantan

 

 

Kanheri Kickoff

On the edge of Borivali Station (Mumbai West), a massive arch will lead you into Sanjay Gandhi National Park. My Relationship with the park dates back to the day I first set my foot on Mumbai soil. The sprawling IIT campus in Powai, which equals to my two year hostel life, is the other end of the national park. In a way I have been living inside the park all along.

Main Entrance on City Main Road
Main Entrance on City Main Road

The wilderness in the park is comparatively more raw than the well maintained campus am used to. Its a shame that it took me two long years to actually go around. Turns out I ended up not exploring anything close to what I intended. Hence sticking to only one interesting element in the park-The Kanheri caves.

Fifteen Minute walk from Bus stop to Caves
Fifteen Minute walk from Bus stop to Caves

History Time! Quoting Wikipedia, These caves date from the first century BCE to the 10th century CE. One hundred and nine caves have been carved from the basalt. Most of the caves are used as the Buddhist viharas, meant for living, studying, and meditating.

Enter the Caves
Enter the Caves

Park entry fee is available online and at entry points. We took the government bus that periodically leaves starting point to reach the foothills of the caves which charges extra. There is a nominal entry fee for the caves separately as well.

Granite your way up
Granite your way up

It is essentially series of caves with Buddha engravings and towering statues. The central Vihara (Praying hall) is probably the sole distinct tourist attraction. In terms of architecture, not much remains. As we went up through winding staircase, we encountered water source flowing from top making miniaturized falls and slippery rock beds.

Kids playing around falls
Kids playing around falls

At the extreme top you get access to meadow with paths leading inside forest that goes uphill. Beautiful flowers and a grand view from top makes the journey worthwhile.

Trekking up to highest point
Trekking up to highest point

There is a shop selling water and cold drinks on entrance. Expect occasional roadside foods to fill your tummy in case you plan to trek the whole route. Else get on the returning bus that takes roughly 20 minutes to bring you back on gate.

Tip offs

  • We went on public holiday. DO NOT GO ON HOLIDAYS.
  • To support my previous caps locked statement, families come here with a picnic atmosphere. You can guess the rest.
  • Take a car. Its expensive but might be more worthy if you plan to cover the whole forest (beyond caves).
  • Plastic water bottles are not allowed and will be confiscated at the gate. Strangely they sell the same inside and you will encounter them en route. <Insert Corruption Meme here>
  • There are animals. Snakes were roaming in the vicinity of water. Be careful.
  • Its in city limits. Yaaay.

My Recommendation

Its old. Really really old. The rocks you will touch on the way underwent test of time and stood strong. You will be touching pieces of history. Just look at this huge Buddha engraving on the doorway.

Engraved Buddha
Engraved Buddha

Yeah this one was a damper post. I know. Will come back with something better.

Promise.

Sayantan

Godspeed Goa

Goa is Special. I can think of thousand reasons to justify my claim. The place qualifies to be Hawaii for Indians. My personal checklist did state an obvious visit to Goa from Mumbai as my father passionately states from his Bollywood experience. The trip to quasi paradise was undoubtedly strenuous, exciting yet most satisfying trip I can think of. This is one memorable click of all the participants, taken on the edge of Panaji.

Selfie of a Selfie

The Departure

Failing to get tickets on IRCTC, we booked Paulo Travels through Redbus. The seats were comfortable despite being a Non-AC seater. It left around 6 P.M. from Sion on a Thursday night in February and valiantly embarked upon a fifteen hour long journey.

Paulo Travels Bus sporting Captain America for reasons unknown
Paulo Travels Bus sporting Captain America for reasons unknown

The bus stopped at a certain Dhaba called Central Park on Mumbai-Pune highway. The food is expensive when compared to quality and its advisable to eat lightly due to the long hours involved.

Eating out in a Dhaba
Eating out in a Dhaba

They came to a halt after passing through a massively jerky road in dawn. You can brush and have breakfast here. Since I skipped food at this time, cannot really pass my judgement on that.

Entering Goa in morning
Entering Goa in morning

We got down at Mapusa in Goa considering the fact that our choice of stay was closer to this point. The travel agencies and the bike rental stalls are fortunately at the same place in Mapusa. We opted for Scooty (250 INR per day) and Pulsar (350 INR per day) as our steeds, in exchange for our driving license of course. Make sure to take receipt and helmet in case you break a law and get caught by cops. The petrol prices was borne by us. If you want car or jeep (or Harley Davidson bikes) , your prayers stands a chance to be answered.

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Bike stand at Mapusa

The Stay

Being students who always complain being perpetually low on cash, our research online led us to Sea Shore Beach Resort. It holds significantly high rating at Tripadvisor, because of its amazing location. A distance of thirty seconds away from Calangute beach of North Goa yet super easy on wallets happens to be a rare combination. Labelled as beach resort, do not go there expecting a true resort. You can access their official site at http://seashorebeachresort.com. Mr. Devanand or Mr. Arshad are extremely cordial and great at managing this place successfully.

Hotel Seashore resort
Hotel Seashore resort

Its easy to miss the way in so as you reach Calangute, look out for Mocha and take a turn there to reach the destination. Opt for rooms in second floor as they have best views and have been recently furnished. They have amenities like AC, TV, geyser, extra bed and food service till 10.30 P.M. from the eatery on ground floor. The rooms were big enough to accommodate four of Bachelors with ease.

Double Bedroom on Sea facing top floor
Double Bedroom on Sea facing top floor

Calangute Beach

One of the most popular beach was few steps away from the resort. Shacks and sunbathers line up the periphery.

Canoes and Shacks of Calangute
Canoes and Shacks of Calangute

The blue sky and clear water touches the white sand of Goa. When you are at one of the most beautiful spots in India, walking on the sand becomes a surreal experience in itself.

Treading on Seashore
Treading on Seashore

However we chose to take the wild side. The water is safe and comparatively shallow, even as you walk in over a significant distance into the sea. Amazing can be an understatement.

Swimming through the waves
Swimming through the waves

Next stop was to chill at nearby open air shack called Spice Wok. The food tastes delicious as you feel the afternoon sun.

Spiced up at Spice Wok
Spiced up at Spice Wok

Since we had to drive, we chose mocktails. Cranberry was the best of the lot.

Cranberry Carnival
Cranberry Carnival

Aguada Fortress

So we hopped on our bikes and rode up the hill as we…

Riding on Bikes
Riding on Bikes

…headed for the Aguada fort. The name stands for Water place in Portuguese, this massive structure was built in 1612.

Entrance to Aguada Fort
Entrance to Aguada Fort

Majority of the structures remain and well maintained despite the heavy tourist flow. The white lighthouse operated till 1976 although the inside is inaccessible.

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Lighthouse of the Fortress

As we went downhill, we spotted a diversion towards Aguada Jail. Turns out it was actually a fully functional jail beyond which our entry was prohibited. However there is a path hidden on its right flank that leads down through a flight of stairs.

Stairs near Central Jail
Stairs near Central Jail

The view from the stony structures is simply gorgeous as you can experience sea from closer proximity.

Rock Bottom
Rock Bottom

Perception will take a different meaning from top of fort and bottom at sea level.

The Fort and The Sea
The Fort and The Sea

Dona Paula

Passing through Panaji, we managed to reach the sunset spot of Dona Paula just on time. Elevated and crowded, people flock together to buy hats, sunglasses and garments as memoirs of Goa.

Chilling atop Dona Paula
Chilling atop Dona Paula

We waited with bated breath to see the sun drop in the sea.

Hues of Sunset
Hues of Sunset

And as it drops, the blue eyed water turns into dark stretches of nothingness.

Moments before light vanishes
Moments before light vanishes

The Cruise

A wine shopkeeper provided us with cruise tickets at discounted rates. The middle and upper deck are accessible to everyone for free while the lower deck, which is a floating disco, is provided for free to the ladies and for 50 INR price to gents.

Decking the Decks

We stayed on upper deck which showcases cultural performance to showcase Goanese tradition. This is followed by live DJ for tourists to dance on stage.

Culture Aboard
Culture Aboard

We did not forget to focus on the amazing trail of lights as the cruise floated on Mandovi river.

Lights Aligned
Lights Aligned

The Buildings

As we zoomed on our two wheelers the following day, the colorful hues of the homes caught our attention.

A typical Goan House
A typical Goan House

Although most of the churches sticked to its serene white, the color choice of surrounding buildings added to punched out contrast.

A typical Goan Church
A typical Goan Church

Chapora Fort

Passing through narrow lanes and paths, the Chapora fort stands atop a barren area.

Walking Up
Walking Up

One has to park their two wheelers and walk up considerably to reach the point.

Leaving the Bikes behind
Leaving the Bikes behind

Rest assured, the view from the top is simply breathtaking to say the least.

Viewpoint
Viewpoint

The walk in brisk sun gets you a tan but worth every sweat you drop.

YOLO moment
YOLO moment

And finally as we settled in the coveted spot, as shown in the movie Dil Chahta Hain, the title track to be precise.

The Sacred Spot
The Sacred Spot

We saw the curved line of our next destination.

Vagator Beach
Vagator Meets the Horizon

Vagator Beach

Baby, its beautiful. There are two parking spots, the one at the top is paid and gives you an amazing view. The landscape blows the mind.

Upper Vagator
Dudes of Upper Vagator

Opt for the road downside as you have free parking beside a shack. This is considered as one of the cheapest beach for water sports.

Dressed up for Darr ke Age ka Jeet
Dressed up for Darr ke Age ka Jeet

The daring ones took a package of 1600 INR where they take you to a boat in middle of the sea for a series of splashy adventures that includes banana ride, water bikes and bump rides. To top the cherry on cake, there is parasailing, carry extra 200 bucks for dips.

Ready for Parasailing
Ready for Parasailing

Carry your camera or mobile wrapped in plastic as salty water may gush in on you often. However it is highly recommended to frame this moment.

A salty Dip of Parasailing
A salty Dip of Parasailing

We found Banana Ride most exciting of them all as they literally drop you in middle of ocean without warning. Bump Ride is plain fun, similar to the ones you get at water parks (read Waterkingdom) of Mumbai. They will let you steer the water bikes if you know how to drive its land counterpart but be careful with the mad velocity it maintains.

Water Biker
Water Biker

Some preferred to chill at the beach, dressed in floral patterned Tshirts exclusively available in Goa.

Chilling in Pink
Chilling in Pink

In the end, we had the time of our lives.

Mandatory Group Photo
Mandatory Group Photo

The return was cooled off by a series of cocktails flavoured from coffee through bloody to lagoon.

Cocktail Colours
Cocktail Colours

One of our friend had to leave back to attend official matters, so from this point on six of us continued.

Saturday Night Market

Official Logo of SNM
Official Logo of SNM

Want to experience one of the most unique experiences Goa has to offer? This Market in North Goa is spellbinding. Massively crowded by locals and tourists alike, the shop thrives on Goanese people, the food and the music.

Crowd of Market
Crowd of Market

It is the haven of bustling energy.

Idols on Sale
Idols on Sale

Experience the variety as you traverse along the winding path upwards.

Lanterns of Paper
Lanterns of Paper

Arabian Band Anna RF had their live performance at the heart of the market. Check out their Youtube channel as they have Rikshawalla song created in India itself that will surely make you kill the repeat button or hop on to their catchy tune Jump.

Live Performance gig
Live Performance gig

The night was still too young.

Gang in Market Lights
Market Lights

Old Goa

Lila cafe and Tito’s nightclubs happen to be one of the most happening and publicised spot in Goa. Due to our shortage of time, we could not sneak in this time.

Tito's Bar
Tito’s Bar

The last morning was aimed at travelling through Old Goa. We crossed the capital Panjim (or Panaji) on our way.

Panjim Bus Stop
Panjim Bus Stop

You have to drive by the Mandovi River stretch again. The wind gushing on your face feels splendid.

Stretch connecting Panjim to Old Goa
Stretch connecting Panjim to Old Goa

We chose extremely pocket friendly dhaba called Hotel Annapurna near Basilica of Bom Jesus where you get decent quality of food at reasonable rate (thalis in 100 INR).

Food Time
Food Time

The Churches

Old Goa is famous for its churches. The Basilica made of Red bricks is huge as expected by its immense popularity.

Red Tints of Bom Jesus
Red Tints of Bom Jesus

But it is the interior that blows the mind away.

Walking through the Cathedral
Walking through the Cathedral

Walk up to no photography zone area where its history is recorded in as series of paintings. The cathedral houses relics from different churches of world that came in through multiple foreign invasions in Goan territory. You can get more details in the mueseums of Church of St Francis of Assissi situated directly opposite.

Church of St Francis
Church of St Francis

Despite its renovated pale outlook, the inside is no less amazing.

Inside Art
Inside Art

Further ahead, we managed to locate ruins of massive church of St Augustine. Its colourful history is well documented on the welcoming signboard.

Ruins and Placard
Ruins and Placard

To give an estimate of its destruction, here is a view from considerable distance.

The Ruins from a Distance
The Ruins from a Distance

And here is how it feels inside.

Inside the Belly of the Ruins
Inside the Belly of the Ruins

The Temple

The ride to Shanta Durga temple required us to go till foothills of Kavalem Village.

Path to Temple
Path to Temple

A series of shops line up the parking spot to the actual entrance.

Staircase up to the main Entrance
Staircase up to the main Entrance

The Indo Portuguese architechture has an unused water tank at the back and another no photography zone on the inside. The local myth goes on to say wishes getting fulfilled to those who prays to the deity inside.

Pillars of Shanta Durga Temple
Pillars of Shanta Durga Temple

We rushed back to hotel, checked out and caught the bus of Atmaram Travels back from Mapusa at 6.30PM. The booking was through Ibibo. The return was lengthy and sleepy, as we boarded off at 10AM near Sion.

Tip offs

  • Ride two wheelers to skip the traffic and maximise travel. Its cheaper as well.
  • Follow direction arrows throughout the roads, or ask locals as everyone knows everything here.
  • Use Suncreen. Really use it if you dont want your skin peeling off like mine.
  • Use helmet if you are riding a bike, else the cops will fine you.
  • Wear shades with UV protection. Dont but the cheap streetside ones as they are colored plastic and useless. The sun can be insanely harsh.
  • Avoid shady people in beaches at night or bikes on day making offers. Politely ignore. Best places to get information are your hotel agents and shops.
  • Dont litter, the water is clean but the popular beaches are filled with beer bottles and cans.
  • Last but not the least, please dont get so drunk that you become nuisance to others.

My Recommendation

King Fish is a relatively tasteless giant edible piscean available at majority of resturants in Goa. We took a baked one and the sharp canines meant the hunters are often hunted here. Anybody would recommend a ton of better things for Goa but this seems appropriate considering the indigenousity of this fish and its incorporation in traditional Goan diet.

Something Smells Fishy
Something Smells Fishy

Until Next Time.

Aloha

Sayantan

All Hail Alibaug

It was a one day trip to Alibaug Beach on a February morning. We left from Gateway of India, Mumbai. Easiest way to reach Gateway is to arrive at Churchgate or CST station and take a cab from there.

The Gang in front of The Taj
The Gang in front of The Taj

We embarked upon this journey on a ferry. If you ever went to Elephanta caves by sea route, the location for catching ferries are just the same.  Click here for rate chart. We opted for a fun time atop Maldar Ferry (Non AC).

Gateway of Mumbai on the Horizon
Gateway of Mumbai on the Horizon

With the winds blowing in our face and ships parked in Bombay Dockyard, we travelled for a good one and half hour to reach the port. On our way, we encountered numerous ships of varied girth as sea gulls swooped around to fish for their prey. And for the Agneepath fans, Mandwa exists! The Mandwa Jetty is extremely clean and is surprisingly well maintained.

Mandwa Jetty
Mandwa Jetty

Walking slightly down on the beach, we saw the dangerous Arabian Sea at its calmest, bluest and cleanest form. Crabs were hurling around our feet as the beach is subjected to some forms of banana ride and water sports, but mostly safe from the garbage which encroaches every popular Mumbai beach.

On looking into the Ocean
On looking into the Ocean

You can get the complimentary bus rides to the town of Alibaug in Raigarh district which rounds every thirty minutes. As we were pretty impatient and hungry, we decided to take a private mode of transport. The enormous autos charged around 450INR to take us through turbulent roads, but we have seen worse, so it was worth the stir.

The Road to Alibaug
The Road to Alibaug

Do try the local drink Neera, extracted from Palm tree, to beat the heat as it is exclusively available in the morning.

Cooling off with Neera
Cooling off with Neera

As we reached the beach, hunt for a respectable place to have lunch begun. Despite getting numerous eateries and restaurants on the way, the local Panwalas unanimously recommended Hotel Samman. It is a near twenty minute walking distance from Alibaug beach and the blazing sun did not help much, nonetheless, we managed to traverse through significant part of the coastal lanes to reach the place.

Hotel Samman
The Hotel that everyone Respects

We got Veg Thalis for a fairly decent rate and the ambiance was definitely much better than our expectations.

Assorted Thali for The Vegeterians
Assorted Thali for The Vegeterians

For the daring ones like me who tried Konkani Thali (because of fish), the food is as authentic as it gets due to the Konkani flavour.

Konkani Dish with marine Fish
Konkani Dish with marine Fish

Give Oyster masala a try which is nothing short of amazing, although, it does not come as part of thali. Unfortunately I missed out taking its photo since most of my efforts went into sucking those tasty oysters. We finished the lunch with a good old fashioned cold drink.

Cheers to Friendship and a good meal
Cheers to Friendship and a good meal

Retracing our steps back, we reached the entrance point of the beach again. One can notice a lot of resorts flanking the vicinity.

Entrance to the Anlibaug beach
Entrance to the Anlibaug beach

Now here is the thing. There is Kolaba Fort in middle of the sea which you can travel by foot in the morning ebb. But since it was afternoon, high tide was pouring in and considering the fact that we did not bring any spare clothes, we were clueless on how to reach. So the group got divided into two, one who decided to sacrifice their clothes and reach the point by swimming through water. The other group adopted the mode of speedboat which takes you there in five minutes and costs you 100 INR each, on negotiable terms. I decided to carry the camera and save my jeans, hence the speedboat was my carriage.

Speedboating with Nikon DSLR
Speedboating with Nikon DSLR

The fort is in much better shape than the its counterparts at higher altitude. Although broken, structures remain in places while covering a significantly wide area. The welcoming stone reads something like this.

The Information Tablet
The Information Tablet

This is where you just sit on the rocks and get a mini Dil Chaahta Hain feel. In reality we were making desperate attempts to check if our friends are stranded in the sea, hoping they survive the water level that was increasing with time.

Dil Chaahta Hain Reprised
Dil Chaahta Hain Reprised

Failing to spot anyone, we started exploring the caverns and doors. There are good number of points which acted as observation points for any incoming threats through water routes.

Exploring the remnants of Kolaba Fort
Exploring the remnants of Kolaba Fort

There is a white temple built in the centre. The photo below is the other end of the fort which is in worse condition than the entrance.

Birds eye view of Fort Edge
Birds eye view of Fort Edge

How can a fort exist without its share of Canons. This kids decided to ride the canon as the photo got shot with another Canon.

The Canonical Case
The Canonical Case

For those wondering what happened to the rest of our crew, they did not make a quarter of the swim. Instead they were having fun throwing mud at each other. Win-win situation for both the gangs.

Frolicking amidst Water
Frolicking amidst Water

As we came back from the fort, we saw these half naked dudes drying their garments under the sun. You can opt for water rides here as well. If the sand makes you feel deserted, these guys will take you for a ride.

Carefree Camel not caring at all
Carefree Camel not caring at all

The end of the beach has washrooms and changing rooms, separate for girls and guys, which is fortunately maintained. In front of that, a large number of streetside shops serve variety of foods on the likes of golas and corn on the cobs.

Dracula Stage thanks to Kala Khatta
Dracula Stage thanks to Kala Khatta

It is important to ensure you come out on time to catch the last ferry back to Mumbai. The Madwa Jetty looks amazing during sunset.

Cloud lining over Mandwa Jetty
Cloud lining over Mandwa Jetty

Yes. Amazing is an understatement.

Sunset on the Jetty
Sunkissed Horizon at Mandwa

We returned with the gulls as they snatched chips out of our hands. Our cameras were failing at that point due to lack of light.

Seagulls soaring towards food
Seagulls soaring towards food

Tip Offs

  • Come early if you want to travel more. Heard that Nagaon beach is a better option for swimming which we could not cram due to being late and lazy.
  • Travel via ferry, not bus as the latter takes over three and half hours. Also ferry is more enjoyable, be it with friends or family.
  • Carry extra clothes if you plan to swim. Else carry extra money for speedboats.
  • Try Konkani food if you are not used to it. Also do try Neera on your way as you may not get it during return since they turn inedible post noon.
  • Have GPS on, it may help you track down places like restaurant and bus stops.

My Recommendation

Feeding Seagulls is epic in itself. Chips works wonders, biscuits will be ignored. You can buy both on Jetty itself. But the glowing lights of the ships and Mumbai buildings at night as viewed from the center of the Arabian sea can be a real treat.

Without Fear or Favour
Framing the Silhouettes

On a personal level, we managed to capture this frame after numerous goof ups that will be cherished for a lifetime.

Until Next Time.

Adios,

Sayantan

Update (2020)

The font becomes smaller because that is the new style of blog posts.

I went back to Alibaug for my company offsites. It was pretty much a bus ride to a farmhouse, far away from touristy beaches. The first farmhouse visit was rather fun. I was pretty much the guy with camera recorder and the experience was new. The second visit to the same farmhouse doing the same things was a horribly boring deja vu.

Pretty much backed out of the third time torture but then eventually was forced to rehash. My colleague and I made some random excuse and left that venue early. We had to fit ourselves in this large 9 seater auto with other villagers to reach the ferry point. It was frankly more fun than the offsite.

Marching Through Manikgad

There is this website called meetup.com. It allows users to create online clubs and create events. People with similar interest flock together and decide to well, meet up and do something together. We joined the hike through this unique platform since one of the senior member of my institute happened to be a member of such a trekking group, called Mumbai Explorers.

Our new year celebration was ushered on the first Saturday of January, a one day hike to Manikgad Fort. We were twenty odd travellers (half of which were from my department, so this became a class trip of sorts).

Panvel Railway station at Mumbai's end
Panvel Railway station at Mumbai’s end

Wherever you are in Mumbai, you have to come to the central line and get up on a train to reach Panvel, latest by 7.30 AM. Try not to delay cause in case you fail to complete your trek before sunset, you are in for serious trouble. You need some vehicle to travel the distance between Panvel and the village on the foothills of Manikgad.

We hired two Tata Sumos where we crammed ourselves up somehow to reach the initiation point of the real trek. However you may take bus for cheaper rates as well.

We got a local guide at 500 INR which is highly recommended since people do get lost on their way. Whatever food or water you might need, do stock up from the village, especially if you are an amateur like me. Carrying glucose and first aid is as wise as wearing trekking shoes that do not slip.

A part of the Gang when everybody was so full of energy
A piece of the energised gang

Before I proceed any further, let me clarify the expectations set from this trip. One has to embark on 13 kilometer uphill walk, followed by 13km return, with no properly defined path leading to the summit. The height expected to travel is 1800 feet above sea level. In case you are traveling in monsoon, expect rains, fogs and slippery roads. If you are traveling in January like we did, the blazing sun can be a bummer.

Walking through dried grassy terrain
Walking through Dried Grassy Terrain

We started walking through the village, atop black granite rocks, green patches of intermediate forests and ultimately dead hays which turn into lively bushes during monsoon. Our first destination actually is the top of a plateau for which we had to cut through an awful lot of hays.

Smiles as we reached near the Plateau
Smiles as we reached near the Plateau

Next up was a really long meadow with nothing but the sun killing our enthusiasm. As we approached grassy terrain with streams of water, we were informed by our guide that it was just the base of the actual monster. From the plateau, we could finally see the pointy peak to fathom how much more we need to hike.

A peek into the Peak from the Plateau Top
A peek into the Peak from the Plateau surface

Next up, we waded through this really really dense forest and random boulders providing grips to go on. Here losing your path is easy, with probable roads churning out randomly leading to dead ends. Due to differential speed among the trekkers, we did get manage to get lost once. I, unfortunately, hit my head against a thick tree branch in the process.

There was this one middle aged guy, almost on verge of giving up. Another girl kept moving into fits of periodic panic attacks and bouts of crying. All this confusion led to some hikers falling behind and losing the way.

Pushing through Greenery
Pushing through Greenery

The rescue process slowed us down by a good thirty minutes. On the way, we encountered a devastated mandir of Shri Hanuman with a Siva Linga. This was followed by a winding barren path and deep trenches where rocks kept slipping beneath our shoes. Unless you are careful, falling down can be seriously injurious to health. Everyone was treading so much carefully that taking photos was not an option.

Barren land and Rocky roads
Barren land and Rocky roads

Finally we reached the fort. In case you make it like we did, you will probably be cheering out to see the water pond inside the broken castle.

Happy to be First
Happy to be First

Most of us ended up collapsing on the ground though and opt for a quick nap.

Weary and Dozed off
Weary and Dozed off

Everyone was happy and relieved. We had packed lunch but water bottles were all empty by then. There were broken water cisterns with really dirty water. Due to our compulsion, we ended up drinking water from the rainwater powered pond few steps down.

Fun with Flags
Fun with Flags

If you are really pumped up like I was to see something substantial on top, you are in for major disappointment as the fort has nearly nothing left. There were some random bricks with more random coloured flags. A trek like this is aimed for those who enjoys the thrill of it.

The tiny fort on descent
The tiny fort on descent

We started descent at 3.00 PM which sufficed as winter has longer days and we took almost three hours to climb down. I found the descent comparatively difficult as my sport shoes started to slip, so it is wiser to just walk straight to maintain center of gravity. Using a strong stick to maintain balance can be very helpful.

Look back at what was left behind
Panoramic Look back at what was left behind

As I was scrolling through the photos for the blog, I wondered what was the history behind the old Maratha warriors, who used to regularly travel with high risk to build a fort so high. This is a view from the top and the motivation started to make sense. It basically acted as a viewpoint to identify any threat to civilization below, a vantage point before possible attacks. I am still unsure of how they managed to use this during the fogs.

Landscape view from the Fort
Landscape view from the Fort

Tip Offs

  • Carry waters and dry food, you will not survive without these two anyway.
  • Shoes with good grip helps, especially in rainy season.
  • Torch in case you are stuck in dark. Wikipedia mentions panthers habitat in this area although the villagers claimed none are left as of now.
  • If you are planning to go cheap, you can get everything done at 150INR. Ours was a bit expensive with 400 INR inclusive food, guide and Sumo travel.
  • Not for the Weak Hearted. Stay away!!!
  • Carry point and shoot camera or light DSLR. We had Point and shoot, Canon 1200D and Nikon 5300D. Unfortunately most of the photos were taken with the Nikon whose memory card was misplaced in an auto during return.

My Recommendation

Till ten o’ clock in the morning, we were able to see both the sun and the moon, special thanks to the altitude which allowed us to do so. I found it interesting frankly and here is a photo to prove that it looks awesome.

Gibbous Moon at 10 AM as seen through Compact Camera
Gibbous Moon at 10 AM as seen through Compact Camera

We will travel somewhere completely different in next article.

Until Next Time.

Cheers

Sayantan

Love From Lavasa

The Journey

A decade back, this corner of Maharashtra had been labelled as under developed. At least that is what I heard from my fellow mates before i embarked on this trip. Frankly I had no idea what to expect. As my childhood buddy and his family invited me to join them, I decided to go without really utilizing the power of Google to blow my mind. Oh Damn good decision it was. This was December 2014 and before I go any further, here is a sneak peek into the city made so beautifully that you will hate to leave.

The breathtaking lake that makes Lavasa the beautiful place it is
The breathtaking lake that makes Lavasa the beautiful place it is

We left Powai at 7AM via a Taxiforsure cab. Traveling across Mumbai is always an epic experience for me, the race against terrible Mumbai traffic is often real.

The Expressway which connects Mumbai and Pune, serving a well built path to majority of Maharashtra tourist places
The Expressway which connects Mumbai and Pune, serving a well built path to majority of Maharashtra tourist places

The best part of the odd 186km journey is you get to drive along the superbly built Mumbai Pune expressway. Here is a snapshot of the popular joint for a morning snack, with canteens and shops lining across the parking space.

A chain of eatery cum parking lot to fill your tummies prior to breakfast
A chain of eatery cum parking lot to fill your tummies prior to breakfast

As you move ahead through the road, it takes more than three hours to reach the destination. But the experience begins when you wind up the spiral roads to reach the city ahead. The inclinations are often way too steep to handle. This will be your view as you approach Lavasa.

Behold the bridge of Lavasa gluing the town together
Behold the bridge of Lavasa gluing the town together

Lavasa gave me the impression of being built on trademark styles of European township with flavour of precise planning sprinkled all over, Albeit it does follow a mix between Copenhagen and Venice, the city is filled with paved walks and small bridges. Look how clean and well maintained everything is.

Arch shaped brick bridges modeled in European style
Arch shaped brick bridges in European style

Yes. The roads do deserve special mention with spotless sidewalks and children playing around. A string of restaurants adorn this area with popular brands like Cafe Coffee Day and Baskin Robbins. You can also opt for movies in the mini theatre if you are in the mood.

Chain of Restaurants along Lavasa Footpath
Chain of Restaurants along Lavasa Footpath

There has been reports on environmental impact study resulting in a political juggernaut that blocked rapid development of this massive project. From a layman perspective, there is no dearth of greenery among this brick and mortar structure. The planning can be so much pleasing to an Indian eye subjected to roadside filth of daily lives.

A flight of stairs guarded by Green doorway
A flight of stairs guarded by Green doorway

If you have kids, the options for fun are aplenty. There are Tandem Bicycle, Motor based cars (by XThrill) and Pogo stick on wheels (popularly called Segway Personal Transporter). The expense largely varies around 500 INR for each ride.

Compact Four Wheeler transporter
Compact Four Wheeler transporter

Lavasa International Centre serves as an all in one resource for your stay, sports and recreation with detailed information on benefits of staying at a land between the hustle bustle of Mumbai and IT life of Pune.

The All In One Lavasa International Centre for tourists
The All In One Lavasa International Centre for tourists

Although we did not plan an overnight stay, it is recommended you do it as the night can be extremely enthralling. In case you are wondering whether you want to own a home at this beautiful township, here is a view of the stays at a prime location on lakeside.

Flats for tourists planning overnight stay
Flats for tourists planning overnight stay

There are ample number of water based rides at the extreme end with shops selling local goods which opens afternoon onwards. Rowing and motorboating options are offered at rates of around 1000 INR.

The lakeside streets that glows in the dark
The lakeside streets that glows in the dark

With numerous options for children to play and adults to relax, do not forget to carry your camera. For me, it was a Nikon D5200 affixed to 50mm prime lens (most photos are resultant of that camera only) while my buddy Abhishek (in the photo below) took Nikon D3100 with a 55-200mm lens as his choice of weapon.

Photographer preparing his next shot
Photographer preparing his next shot

Tip Offs

  • Be ready to spend money on travel only if you have one day trip in mind like us. If you are staying or planning to stay over, expect drastically higher expense.
  • Food is reasonably priced. We had food a Chinese restaurant (Oriental Octopus) serving Seven Coursed Meal at 400INR. It was totally worth it and the food was delicious to say the least. Highly Recommended. However other varieties (Indian, Lebanese, Mughlai, Italian, American) are also available
  • It is a place designed for you to relax, so if you are a 20 something guy like me planning to come down with your buddies, it can be bad idea. It will be way more enjoyable to come with family, especially if you are planning to stay the night.
  • Detailed information is available at www.lavasa.com and International Centre. Have your GPS on in case your driver gets confused with the route while driving (happened to us), Google Maps can be a wonderful thing.

My Recommendation

Try the Australian fruit Kiwi Juice at Oriental Octopus. Its exotic and absolute delight for people with a sweet tooth.

Kiwi Juice can be the ultimate refreshment
Kiwi Juice can be the ultimate refreshment

Will be back soon with a new article on trekking.

Until Next time.

Cheers

Sayantan

Update (2020)

The font becomes smaller because that is the new style of blog posts.

I went back to Lavasa couple of times after this. It felt increasingly worse both of the times as the city resembles a ghost town these days. Bunch of chains have shut shops, the maintenance has gone downhill (despite the exorbitant entry fee) and fewer people hangs out here.

If this is your first time in Maharashtra, there are better places you should put on your bucket list.