Bangkok And Beyond

Prologue

I’m writing this blog post at a peculiar moment in my life. Typically, my blog posts are the result of weeks or even months of careful planning and revision. However, this one will be born and completed in a single day (Dear Diary, Date: December 2nd, 2024).

The reason for this rush is simple: I’ve made the decision to leave my current job after nearly five years. This transition has been a long time coming, and this trip was meticulously planned as my fifth international adventure before taking a break from foreign travel.

Due to my current career uncertainty, I decided to embark on this trip discreetly, without informing anyone or taking any official leave. Strategically chose the dates to coincide with the long Diwali weekend, departing post midnight on Thursday, October 31st from Kolkata and returning before midnight before Sunday ends. This allowed me to take advantage of the visa-free travel between India and Thailand, which is valid until the end of the year. Despite the short notice, managed to plan a fulfilling itinerary, though it involved a lot of last-minute decisions.

Leveraging the expiring Dubai trip cashbacks (from the past year) and my membership benefits with ALL and ASR, I managed to secure incredible deals on five-star hotel rooms across Asia, significantly reducing my overall expenses. This allowed me to focus my budget on the flight, some shopping, and a unique wildlife tour; the latter being the only activity I had planned in advance. For the rest of the days, I adopted a mindset similar to a corporate professional in Bangkok, exploring Michelin-star restaurants and wandering through malls and streets on my own.

Preparation

Here is a checklist of all the things I had planned in advance for:

  • Flight Tickets
    CCU > DMK on 31st October. Departs at PM IST and lands at
    DMK > CCU on 3rd November. Departs at PM and lands at
    Round trip Price: ₹
  • Health Insurance
    Not Mandatory since no VISA, but Must for safety
    Premium: ₹457
  • Hotels
    Kingston Suites Bangkok, Sukhumit Soi 15, 30th Oct to 31st Oct
    Movenpick Hotel (ALL), Sukhumit Soi 15, 31st Oct to 2nd Nov
    Oakwood Hotel & Residence (ASR), Sathorn, 2nd Nov to 3rd Nov
    Price (post membership and discounts): ₹
  • Airport Transfer
    One way from DMK Airport to Kingston Suites
    Price on Klook: ₹1619
  • eSIM (DTAC)
    10 days 50 GB with Calls
    Price on Klook: ₹575
  • Currency Conversion
    Orient exchange from INR to THB
  • Sealife Bangkok Ocean World
    10-11 AM entry on 1st November
    Price on Klook: ₹2675
  • Car Rental with Driver
    6 AM pickup for 10 hours, Bangkok to Samut Sakhon and return
    Price on Klook: ₹10314
  • Wild Encounter Thailand
    Boat trip for whale watching on 2nd November
    Price: ₹5000 (approx)

Day 1

The flight, delayed by half an hour, managed to arrive in Bangkok on schedule. Visa-free entry expedited the immigration process, and I soon found the Klook cab meeting point. Within ten minutes, I was paired with a driver whose English was fairly limited. We communicated primarily through a translator app. It became clear that she was trying to assess my purpose of visit and whether I was a first-time visitor. To avoid any potential upselling or further discussions around discounted tour package, I feigned being a frequent business traveler with a flexible itinerary.

I soon realized that Sukhumvit Soi 15, particularly the Nana Plaza area, was not family-friendly at all. To be extra cautious, I opted for Grab rides whenever possible. I arrived at the Kingston Hotel lobby before 6:30 AM. The kind receptionist upgraded me to a suite and offered a late checkout of 2 PM, considering my unused portion of the stay as my booking was supposed to start the day before.

The hotel was spread across two building. I was assigned a room in the rear building. Upon entering, I was surprised by its size, featuring a full living room, kitchen, and bedroom. However, a strong cigar smell permeated the room, making it quite unpleasant for me. Additionally, the wall paint was peeling in several places. Despite these drawbacks, I managed to rest well through the morning. I had breakfast at the hotel’s dining area, which was included in my first day stay. The restaurant seemed quite popular among international tourists and the food tasted fairly okay.

By 1:30 PM, I checked out of Kingston and walked up to the luxury hotel next to it. This was Movenpick Hotel, with a truly impressive entrance, a grand lounge foyer and impeccable service, befitting a five-star establishment.

My room was already ready and waiting for my check-in. Although much smaller than the one in Kingston, every thing about this room was perfection.

The hotel was offering a complimentary tasting menu curated by the chef, available daily from 2 PM to 5 PM. Additionally, the chef sent complimentary chocolate-based desserts to my room.

The room was equipped with secure, numbered locks, perfect for storing my expensive camera gear. This was a significant advantage, as it allowed me to free up my backpack for future explorations over the course of next couple of days.

My first adventure was a Grab ride to Mega Plaza, which was located near Chinatown. Despite taking the freeway, we encountered the notorious Bangkok traffic, pushing the time of the journey to over an hour. One striking feature of the city was the projection of advertisements onto tall towers, creating massive virtual billboards.

Mega Plaza truly lived up to its reputation as a haven for pop culture and gadget enthusiasts. The plaza offered a vast array of pop culture items at affordable prices. Spread across five floors, it housed everything from camera stores on the top floor to a massive McDonald’s on the ground floor.

From Dragonball to Disney, the Plaza has it all. The 4th level is known for all the inventories of plushies and the figurines, so I managed to spend a good 2.5 hours window-shopping my heart out. I ended up buying a Goku figurine and Hot Wheels Porsche car, both to be gifted to close friends.

The return journey was even slower, with traffic moving at a snail’s pace at times. Bangkok’s multiculturalism was evident, although not overtly flashy. One example was a Bangladeshi restaurant I spotted from my cab window, with its Bengali signage and setup coexisting with other language in the same area.

I requested a drop-off at Terminal 21 Asok, a nearby mall renowned for its affordable and diverse dining options. As it was just a few hundred meters from my hotel, I decided to have my dinner there. I was pleasantly surprised by the mall’s sheer size. Later I read that it’s one of Asia’s top ten largest malls ever built.

As it was Halloween, the mall’s central area was bustling with a festive celebration. The gothic and Harry Potter-themed decorations were particularly entertaining. However, as it was already 6:30 PM, I decided to prioritize dinner and explore the mall before it closed for the night.

I finally reached Thong Smith, a highly-rated Thai chain restaurant known for its signature boat noodles. After a 15-minute wait, I managed to secure a seat on the bar stool. I ordered the mild spicy chicken boat noodles and fried banana noodles with coconut ice cream. The generous portions and authentic Thai flavors were a far cry from the version we find in India. This restaurant is a must-visit for anyone traveling to Bangkok.

The hotel offered a shuttle service between Asok every half hour, but after waiting for a while, I couldn’t locate it. I gave up around 7:30 PM and decided to walk back to the hotel instead.

For breakfast, I bought some exotic fruits from Gourmet Market, a premium grocery store. The mystery around the identity of the fruits added to the fun, but a quick Google search revealed them to be Java apples and Thai mangoes. I also picked up a large, juicy Japanese apple and some yellow passionfruit cold-pressed juice.

Day 2

I caught an early Grab and arrived at Siam Paragon mall before 10 AM. As the mall was still closed, I waited at the entrance with other commuters, many of whom were in office attire waiting for the mall to open. Later, I realized that the upper floors, beyond the fifth floor, were occupied by corporate offices, including Agoda. Interestingly, there was also a currency exchange desk at the mall’s entrance.

As soon as I descended to the lower ground floor, I was greeted by Big B inviting me to try the Madame Tussauds Bangkok. I politely declined and went ahead to redeem my Klook coupon for Seaworld.

Upon entering, I received a schedule of feeding times, a unique feature I hadn’t encountered in previous aquariums. I decided to wait for the penguin feeding before exploring further.

The aquarium was divided into five themed zones, each showcasing marine life, reptiles, and birds. In addition to the common clownfish, jellyfish, and seahorses, the aquarium housed rare species like salamanders, green pythons, Gentoo penguins, and Arapaima, the largest freshwater fish in the world. The latter were fed live crickets, which created a fascinating spectacle as the fish competed for the jumping insects.

The feeding session began with the world’s smallest otters, who emerged from their hiding spots and swam playfully, oblivious to the audience behind the glass.

Next up was the feeding of seadragons and seahorses, where keepers poured plankton from above.

Following that, I encountered a water tunnel filled with sharks and rays. Amidst these majestic creatures, I spotted turtles being fed seaweed from below, offering a unique underwater perspective.

The Antarctic penguins were quite bold and curious, swimming up to the glass and peering at the visitors. Another section of the aquarium featured African penguins being fed.

I paused to take a selfie with a heat vision screen, simulating how a python sees warm-blooded creatures. This unique photo opportunity provided a fascinating glimpse into the world through a reptile’s eyes.

Adjoining Siam Paragon is Centralworld. Another iconic mall, both being separated by a shrine in between.

The striking part of the mall is the massive Apple Store that welcomes you. I took a quick sneak peek since it is always fascinating to check out any and every Apple Store.

My primary goal was to visit the official Pokémon pop-up section in a secluded corner of the mall. After navigating to the fourth floor of the mall, I finally found that section, featuring Pikachu and Eevee mascots. However, the merchandise, while appealing, didn’t quite meet my expectations. I was searching for a high-quality figurine, but they had none.

CentralWorld had a massive glass capsule elevator going through the central part. I managed to give a quick tour of all levels and was still truly amazed at how unique each of these Bangkok malls are from each other.

The lower ground floor featured a gourmet section with a captivating display of fresh produce. The sheer variety of tropical fruits and vegetables was astonishing.

By 3 PM, I arrived at Nara, a Michelin-recommended restaurant renowned for its signature dishes, particularly popular among the Asian community. The restaurant was quite pricey and had a long waitlist. Fortunately, I managed to secure a table within 20 minutes.

As I planned to explore another restaurant later, I opted for a light meal at Nara. I ordered their pineapple fried rice with chicken floss and a mango juice.

The server offered me a choice: to have the pineapple scooped out or rice served inside it, as shown in the picture. I opted for the scooped-out version for easier time at eating. This meal truly showcased the excellence of a chef. The flavors were exceptional, and every bite was a delightful experience. However, the mango slushie was somewhat disappointing, teaching me to stick to their signature dishes only in the future.

After that light meal, I explored the mall further and discovered an entire floor dedicated to luxury cars. It was mind boggling to see such a wide range of luxury sports cars, from Tesla to Porsche, displayed on the second floor of a mall.

I finally found a section of extremely high quality Pokemon figurine and grabbed a Garchomp for myself. Satisfied with how good the trip was going on till now, I realized it was almost 7 PM and maybe now, I should think of dinner. So down I went to my next restaurant on list – Jumbo, a Singapore chain known for their delicious crabs.

Absolutely loved the blue crab tender meat at Jumbo, with a hint of sweetness. The other item ordered was fried fish egg, which was a tad too salty for my taste.

It was finally time to Grab my ride again. It was raining drizzles now, and the traffic was slightly worse than expected. But I was back at hotel room by 9 PM and I went off to sleep early. I packed everything up for an early morning checkout since I was due for a hotel change the next day.

Day 3

The driver arrived promptly at 5:40 PM in her luxurious MG car. She was initially puzzled by my early morning plan to visit Jeng Krua Pier, but after some explanation, she agreed to take me there. As we ventured out of the city, the urban landscape gradually gave way to farmland and grasslands. Jeng Krua Pier had an adjoining restaurant, the area was a tranquil escape from the city’s hustle and bustle.

My driver was gracious enough to take some photos of me before the sail started at 7 AM. She also captured some of my shots incognito which I actually loved.

Needless to say I was the only brown guy with full sleeves and camera bag, with a tourist gang of Caucasians in their shorts, looking to sunbath on the boat. The captain warned us that the sea was rough, sighting might not be great and if we wanted to take pills to avoid any potential sea sickness situation. After popping one pill, I embarked upon our journey by 7.30 AM.

The first part of the trip was education inside the ship cabin. We had to put on our lifeboats on, primarily for protocol. The Air Condition was a boon in the ocean heat shining upon us.

As I went out on the dock, the rough sea kept throwing my balance me off. Most of the time, I was learning against a mast or holding on to a pillar to get some support. One of the tourist lady even came up to me, asking if I do photography as profession. She was helpful enough to point me towards the whales when they started popping up.

Due to the strong ocean current, none of the adult or calves performed their signature filter feeding stance. But my experience has taught me that you can never expect guaranteed sighting from a wildlife tour. Towards the very end, we did encounter a couple of Blythe’s whale who were more predictable with their movements and allowed me somewhat better pictures. The blow hole and body marks arepretty much all we could see in the sideways feeding maneuver.

The food on board (breakfast and lunch) included chicken, rice, fresh prawns and unlimited portions of Tom Yum soup. The quality was fine but the scorching heat and the rocky boat, both made the experience harder than it needed to be.

We departed at 2 PM, arriving at the port at 3 PM. After taking some photos, I met up with my driver and returned to Bangkok, checking into Oakwood Sathorn. By 4 PM, I was in my new hotel room with Japanese toilet, enjoying a relaxing bath in the bathtub.

Sathorn, a primarily corporate district, offered a peaceful atmosphere, devoid of the usual tourist crowds. After a short walk, I reached Baan Somtum, another Michelin-recommended restaurant, renowned for its authentic Thai papaya salads and spicy dishes.

I started with the spicy crab papaya salad, garnished with grounded red chili. The trick was to eat slowly since the spice hits you much later. A truly unique taste, the minced duck salad and super sweet longan juice helped manage the few minutes of mouth set on Scoville fire.

On my way back, I thought of popping into a 7/11 store, which is literally everywhere throughout Bangkok. I came across a lime-flavored Pepsi, a flavor not available in India, and decided to try it with dinner. Back at the hotel, I got engrossed in a Thai drama on the TV. I ordered Pad Ka Prao and an egg omelet from Grab Food. The portions were small and the flavors were basic, but it was a convenient and affordable dinner option.

Day 4

I checked out of the hotel at 10:30 AM, leaving my hand luggage at the reception. My final destination was ICONSIAM, another one of Asia’s largest malls. However, the mall’s interior resembled a vibrant market, filled with pop-up stores and street food vendors.

The lower two floors of the mall were filled with pop-up shops and local chains, necessitating the use of escalators to access the main mall area. Each floor was dedicated to specific categories, housing large stores of renowned brands. ICONSIAM is considered one of Bangkok’s most upscale malls, with generally higher price points.

This was not to say without my journey into another “iconic” Apple store on second floor. But this Apple store opened into the riverfront view, while the entrance was tucked inside the mall.

The top floor of the mall housed theaters and restaurants. As I hadn’t planned a specific meal, I began exploring the dining options.

Here I discovered Ginger Farm, a restaurant located near a large water fountain in the food court. Encouraged by the positive reviews, I ordered their Chicken Khaosuey and Longon immersed in cane sugar coconut milk. The generous portion sizes, a common theme in Thai cuisine, and the delicious flavors made for a satisfying meal.

By 3 PM, I was back at the hotel lobby, awaiting my pre-booked Grab ride. By 4:30 PM, I had arrived at DMK airport and completed the immigration and check-in process by 6:30 PM.

I spent a couple of hours in the lounge, enjoying sushi, salads, and chocolate chip cookies. The food spread was impressive, except for the overly sweet and syrupy strawberry Fanta.

This marked my end of trip as I boarded flight at 8.30 PM, off to another day of office, the usual grind.

Tip Offs

  • Try to stay away from Nana/Asok area if your intention of travel is city exploration and not going to tourist traps or parties.
  • Carry at least 15000 THB in cash. Nobody asks for the same during entry, but it used to be a rule when Visa was enforced.
  • The sun can be harsh and the rains can be annoying. Also, traffic can be terrible, do plan accordingly.
  • Thai people are nice and helpful, even if they have broken English. The multicultural aspect of Bangkok aids a lot here.
  • Some hotels want 1000 THB cash deposit which they return during checkout. Check-ins are usually at 12 noon and checkout at 2 PM.
  • Collect your VAT refund bills if you are shopping beyond 2000 THB. The refund happens on entering airport and before immigration.

Recommendations

All the food recommendations are pretty much covered above, but here is a quick summary of must try options:

  • Thong Smith : Boat Noodles
  • Nara : Any of their Michellin rated dish
  • Baan Somtum: Papaya Salad with crab

Also Thai Mango (from anywhere really)

Taking a break now from travelling. Let’s see how it goes.

Sayantan